Pump Start Relays
Q: How do I install Pump Start Relays?
A: This is a simple 3-part process:
1) Make sure the power goes in on top.
2) Check that the power goes out on bottom.
3) Then see that the source from the timer connects to the red wires.
Q: My Pump Start Relay is chattering and I just installed it. What do I do?
A: Chances are you installed the Pump Start Relay too far away from the controller with incorrect gauge wire. Increase the wire gauge and see if that solves the problem.
Q: Are there certain steps I should take to maintain my irrigation system?
A: Every Month: 1) Check your timer settings and make any adjustments, 2) Do the same with your sprinklers and sprays, 3) If you have a mainline filter, clean it out.
At the middle or end of the season: 1) Clean out the filters in all your sprinkler heads, 2) Operate each valve manually to check operation, 3) Look for damage on wires and wire nuts.
If trouble occurs: 1) First unclog sprinkler heads, 2) Make sure installation levels of heads are adjusted to ground level.
Sprinklers & Rotors
Q: How do I set my sprinkler?
A: To preset the arc adjustment:
1.) FIND THE LEFT START POSITION: First rotate the turret with your fingers around to the RIGHT (clockwise) until it stops. Then, rotate the turret around to the LEFT until it stops again. This is the LEFT START position. The sprinkler will begin spraying from this point and will rotate clockwise.
2.) To change the arc setting:
To INCREASE THE ARC, insert the K-Key into the arc indication ARROW SLOT at the center of the turret. While holding the turret with your fingers (so that it doesn't rotate), turn the Key CLOCKWISE, until the arc indication arrow points to the arc desired.
To DECREASE THE ARC, hold the turret, and turn the Key COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to the desired arc setting. ( IMPORTANT: DO NOT TURN THE ARC INDICATION ARROW PAST THE 360 SETTING OR PAST THE 30 SETTING )
3.) TO ADJUST THE ARC WITH THE SPRINKLER ON: If the sprinkler is turning to the right, hand-spin the turret to the right until it stops. Then, turn the turret to the left until it stops again. THIS IS THE LEFT START POSITION and you can now turn the arc indication arrow to the desired setting. ( See TO CHANGE THE ARC SETTING ) If the sprinkler is turning to the left, hand-spin the turret to the left until it stops. ( See TO CHANGE THE ARC SETTING ) IMPORTANT: DO NOT TURN THE ARROW PAST THE 30 SETTING OR PAST THE 360 SETTING.
Q: How do I change nozzles on my sprinkler?
A: All K-Rain sprinklers are preset for you with a 90 arc setting, and include a pre-installed #2.5 nozzle (except the K1 SmartSet, which comes with a pre-installed #1.5 nozzle.) To change the nozzle:
1.) USE YOUR KEY: After you remove the nozzle retention screw with your K-Key, insert the Key into the keyhole on top of the turret. Then, turn the K-Key1/4 turn so it doesn't slip out of the hole when you pull it up.
2.) PULL UP THE RISER: Firmly pull the entire spring-loaded riser with the key to access the nozzle socket. Hold the riser up with one hand.
3.) REMOVE THE NOZZLE: With the nozzle retention screw removed, insert the K-Key into the slot directly under the nozzle "prongs" at the top of the nozzle. Now, pivot your key 1/4 turn to "hook" the nozzle and pull the nozzle out.
4.) INSTALL A NEW NOZZLE: Press the desired nozzle into the nozzle socket. Make sure the nozzle number is visible and the nozzle "prongs" are up. Then re-install the nozzle retention screw. NOTE: The nozzle retention screw is also a break-up screw and adjusts the distance of the spray.
Q: How do I change nozzles on my Dial-A-Nozzle sprinkler?
A: To select a nozzle, with riser popped up, hold the serrated ring with one hand. Insert flat screwdriver or K-Key into nozzle selection keyhole on top of turret. Rotate screwdriver or K-Key until desired nozzle is aligned with breakup screw location. Breakup screw ( provided in box ) can be used to adjust the radius.
( NOTE: Nozzle Ring Can Not Be Rotated When Radius Adjustment Screw Is Installed )
Q: How do I clean out the filter?
A: INSPECTING THE FILTER: Unscrew the top and lift the complete sprinkler assembly out of the housing can. The filter is on the bottom of the sprinkler assembly and can be easily pulled out, cleaned and re-installed.
Q: What if my sprinkler isn't turning properly?
A: CAUTION: On new installations, be sure to verify that you have flushed your lines prior to installing sprinklers. Otherwise you will have loaded your sprinklers with sand. If your sprinkler isn't turning properly, try cleaning the filter ( see above ). If sand gets into the sprinklers gears, they will clog up and quit rotating. At this point they can no longer perform and the entire sprinkler must be replaced.
Q: What should I do before installing my sprinklers?
A: PROFESSIONAL TIP: Always blow out your lines first before installing new sprinklers.
( 4000 & 6000 series )
Q: What do I do if my valve doesn't change or cycle to the next zone or outlet?
A: This happens when the stem and disk assembly is not rotating when the water flow is turned OFF and then back ON.
1.) Make sure there is no debris inside the cam. Clean and carefully reinstall the cam.
2.) If fewer than the maximum number of outlets are being used, check the installation of the cam. Ensure that the stem and disk assembly is not being held down by an improperly installed cam.
3.) Remove the valve top and check for proper movement of the stem and disk assembly. Check for and remove any debris or foreign objects that may jam or retard the movement of the disk.
4.) Check for freedom of movement of stem and disk assembly up and down over the center pin in bottom of valve. Scale deposits may build up on the pin and hold stem and disk assembly down. Clean pin and again check for freedom of movement.
5.) Be sure that all operating outlets are not capped and that the flow to operating zones is not restricted in any manner. This would cause pressure to build up in the valve and lock the stem and disk assembly in the down position.
6.) The backflow of water from uphill lines may be preventing the valve from cycling properly. This can happen when the valve is placed too far below an elevated irrigation line. If the valve cannot be placed close to the high point of the system, a check valve should be installed near the valve in the outlet line that runs uphill from the valve.
Q: Water is coming out of all the valve outlets. What do I do?
A1: This problem can be caused when the stem and the disk assembly is not seating properly on the valve outlet. If so try this:
1.) Check for sufficient water flow. A minimum of 10 GPM is required to properly seat the disk. For water flow between 6 and 10 GPM, a stem and disk assembly with a lighter spring is available.
2.) Remove the valve top and check the inside walls to ensure that nothing is interfering with the up and down movement of the stem and disk assembly inside the valve.
3.) Make sure that the operating outlets are not capped and that the flow to the operating zones is not restricted in any manner.
A2: Too many sprinkler heads on a zone will cause insufficient pressure for the disk to seat firmly over the valve outlet. If so reduce the number of heads on the zone to obtain the proper sprinkler operating pressure.
Q: How can I keep the valve from skipping outlets or zones?
A1: For a pump installation, the pump may be losing its prime, causing the water flow to surge. This will cause the valve to cycle quickly several times, skipping one or more zones. Verify that the flow to the valve is constant by removing the valve top and watch the flow when the pump is turned ON after having been turned OFF for at least 15 minutes. The flow should be steady and uninterrupted. In addition:
1.) Seal any pump suction line leaks.
2.) Replace or install suction line. Check valve to prevent pump from losing its prime.
A2: The stem and disk assembly is being advanced past the desired outlet. To correct:
1.) Ensure that the correct cam for the desired number of zones is installed and that the outlet lines are installed to the correct outlet parts of the valve as indicated by the zone numbers on the top of the cam.
Controllers and Timers
( Model #1000, 2000 & 2500 Series )
NOTE: Disconnect power prior to working on power or load.
Q: What do I do if my controller fails to keep proper time?
A1: There may be no power or improper voltage going to the motor. If so, check the Electrical Circuit and Connection Diagram or proper connection of power to controller. Check voltage supply to ensure voltage to motor is 120 or 240 volts as specified for model type.
A2: Your clock motor may be turning but the time dial is not turning. The drive gear located behind the time dial may be broken. If so, remove the time dial and inspect the drive gear. Install a new drive gear noting "this side out." Reinstall the time dial and be sure it turns freely clockwise.
Q: What do you recommend if my controller won't turn OFF?
A1: If your switch is being activated, ensure that wires do not push against the switch or relay. Check that wires leading to the switch are not pulled out.
A2: Your controller may be improperly wired. Check the Electrical Circuit and Connection Diagram and make sure that the input wires are not wired directly to load.
A3: A switch adjustment may be needed for proper automatic operation. Make the needed switch point adjustment as outlined in last question on AUTO MODE. (See below)
A4: The switch knob may not be in the OFF position. Be sure to turn the Auto-Off-On switch to OFF.
Q: What if my controller does not turn ON in the manual mode?
A: That means no power is getting to the controller. First be sure that the controller is properly wired as per the Electrical Circuit and Connection Diagram. Also check your circuit breaker.
Q: What if my controller fails to operate properly in automatic (AUTO) mode?
A1: This may be due to the Daywheel not being properly programmed. Check the Setting and Operation instructions for programming the Daywheel.
A2: Your Auto-Off-On knob may not be set properly
Be sure to turn the Auto-Off-On knob to AUTO position.
A3: The switch may need adjusting. Remove the controller face from its enclosure after disconnecting power to the unit. The switch adjustment screw is located on the switch cover. A clicking of the switch should be heard when the switch arm is slowly pulled back at the halfway point between the edge of the time dial and the far edge of the timing pin. With a small screwdriver, tighten the screw clockwise to cause the switch to active sooner. If the switch is activating sooner than desired, turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise slightly.
A4: The switch contacts or relay may be worn out.
Replace switch or relay (refer to parts list) ensuring that the controller is properly rewired. (Note: A nut driver tool is available to assist in removing black retainer nuts.)
Q: How much water pressure do I need?
A: Most homes have 50 psi, which is more than adequate. 30 psi is a minimum amount of water pressure for system operation.
Q: Can I measure my water pressure?
A: Yes. You can use a pressure gauge or call your municipality for the answer.
Q: How often should I water?
A: For optimum results, we suggest you water less often for a longer period of time rather than frequently for shorter periods. Frequent watering keeps lawn root growth at a surface level. By watering infrequently you promote the expansion of deep-water sources that encourage deep root growth.
Q: How long should I water?
A: That depends on how quickly water is dispersed by your sprinklers. You can determine this by putting pans on your lawn when watering. After 15 minutes, measure the water depth. multiply by 4 to get the water sprinkled per hour. On average, you can expect about ½ inch of water in 15 minutes from sprayheads and ½ inch of water in 60 to 90 minutes from rotors.
Q: How do I know how much water my lawn needs?
A: In normal season weather (80 to 90 degrees), most lawns need about 1 inch of water a week. When temperatures go up, so does your lawn watering needs because so much of the water gets evaporated. Desert areas in mid-summer require up to 2 inches of water per week. Judge your own lawn accordingly.
Q: Is a certain time of day better for watering?
A: The optimal time for watering your lawn is early in the morning. if not possible, evening watering is next best. Mid-day watering is discouraged, unless it is cool out or if you have a new lawn that needs constant moisture. Do not water more than once a day unless heat is causing extreme evaporation. Heavy clay soil or hillside irrigation with considerable runoff may also require additional watering periods.
Q: Can my rotors and spray heads be used at the same time -- or on the same line?
A: No. Rotors and spray heads water at different rates. Therefore you need to run them at different times.
Q: What should I do about dirty water?
A: Some water sources include sand, particles, moss and other debris which are not effectively trapped by the inlet screen. Such materials damage heads, valves and fittings within your sprinklers. If these are your circumstances, your best option is to install a filter on your mainline.
Q: How deep should the trenches be to install my sprinkler pipe?
A: Bury your sprinkler pipe 6 to 12 inches below ground surface taking into account the height of the fitting, the length of the rise and the height of the sprinkler head.
Q: Can I dig under sidewalks to install my system?
A: Yes, by attaching a power nozzle to the pipe end so you can "jet" under the sidewalk.
Q: How are orders shipped?
A: Orders placed on www.krain.com will be shipped "FOB Origin" via FedEx Ground or UPS Ground and paid for by the customer.
Q: What does the shipping term "FOB Origin" mean?
A: The shipping term FOB Origin means that ownership of the merchandise is considered to change hands at the time of shipment.